Do you shy away from rompers because you don't like taking them off completely to go to the bathroom? Or do you like more conservative necklines (that won't stretch to go over your shoulders and hips)?
Don't assume you can't wear rompers. I'm going to show you how to snap up your romper and no one will ever know! I am using the Hollywood shorts with the Katharine bodice and sleeves - with a modified neckline. (The neckline modification is not included in this tutorial. Please tag me over in the Facebook group if you would like information on that step.)
Before we get started, let me give you 2 things to consider:
1) Snapping the romper back together in a small bathroom may require some flexibility and dexterity. Proceed at your own risk.
2) YOU WILL WANT TO HOLD THE BACK OF YOUR ROMPER UP. I am not responsible for rompers that fall in the toilet. You will wish you had just pulled it down instead.
What you will need:
1) Snaps – 5 are plenty unless you are making longer shorts in which case you may want more.* Color doesn't matter, they will be hidden.
2) A very small amount of woven (not stretchy) fusible interfacing. I love Pellon SF101 – it’s thin and stable. But any woven interfacing will work.
*A quick note about snap tape. I did try snap tape on a muslin version. It is possible to use it, but I don’t prefer it for 2 reasons. 1) It adds a lot of bulk. 2) You can’t be as precise about snap placement. I like one snap at each hem and one as close to the center as I can get it, and I could not achieve that with snap tape.
NOW LET’S GET STARTED!
STEP 1. You need to extend the shorts pattern pieces (both front and back) by 1 inch. (You do not need to preserve the slight kick out at the hem.) Cut out your modified pieces.
STEP 2. Line up front and back pieces and sew the outseam (yellow lines).
STEP 3. Open up both legs. Line them up, right sides together, and sew the front and back curves (green lines).
STEP 4. Fold the front inseam up by 1 inch and press a memory fold. Repeat for the back. Measure the length of the inseam - make note of what it is.
STEP 5. Cut 2 pieces of fusible interfacing. It will be 1 inch x the length of the inseam measured in step 4. Fuse to the front and back inseams and label with a fabric marker. (You can skip labeling, but trust me, it helps.)
STEP 6. Working on the back piece only, and using your memory fold you pressed in step 4, fold the interfacing up and topstitch along the sides of placket (showing in yellow).
STEP 7. Fold your front inseam up – BUT DO NOT STITCH IT DOWN. We want our snaps to be hidden so we need to leave this placket unstitched for now. With the front inseam folded up but not stitched, fold up the entire length of your leg to press the memory hem in place. Repeat on the other leg. *We are only pressing in this step.* This memory hem will be very helpful when we put our snaps in.
STEP 8. Working with your back placket, mark your snap placement. I like to have one at each hem, one close to the center (but not in the seam) and then one in between on each side. Insert your snaps with the flat side/cap of the snap on the wrong side of the garment and socket side of the snap on the right side of the garment.
Your back piece is done!
STEP 9. Let’s move onto the front placket. With the hem folded into place, mark your snap placement, making sure to align them with your back snaps.
STEP 10. Now, we are going to insert our snaps, but we will only be working with the fabric that is folded over. We will not put our snaps through all the layers because we don’t want to see them from the outside!
STEP 11. Top stitch the length of your placket on both sides (green lines). This can be tricky as your presser foot can get really close to the snaps. Use the narrowest presser foot you have and go slow.
YOUR HIDDEN SNAP PLACKET IS NOW COMPLETE!
The last thing to do is hem your legs. Get as close to the snaps on each leg as you can (but don’t worry if you can’t get too close, your snap holds the back hem in place and your top stitching holds the front hem in place).
Enjoy your snap up romper!