I was inspired by one of my favorite hoodies that I've had for, oh, almost 10 years. It's held up well, but I'd been meaning to recreate it for some time now, and the Hannah proved to be perfect to help me do it!!
Put simply, all I did was take out the zipper and create patch pockets in place of the kangaroo pocket. I also challenged myself here to use a faux coverstitch finish for the hood trim and neckline, sleeve cuffs, bottom band, and the pockets. It resulted in very satisfying design details.
What you'll need:
Hannah pattern + materials for hooded options
Now let's get to it so you, too, can have a lightweight spring pullover this season!
- You'll need to alter the front bodice piece to remove the section where the zipper would be inserted. I traced my original pattern piece to make a new one with the alterations.
To remove the zipper, measure down the fold line the distance you want your scoop to go. I chose 5 inches. Mark this, and then draw a smooth curve up to toward the shoulder. The higher up toward the shoulder, the wider your scoop will open. Since my inspiration hoodie was very wide/open, I created a rather deep and wide scoop. You can adjust it to your personal preference.
2. Next I created my pattern piece for the patch pocket. I measured the pockets on my inspiration hoodie and came up with pocket dimensions of approx 4" at the bottom, 3" at the gathered top, and 4" long including the top band. You can always adjust the measurements to your preference.
So for the main pocket piece I cut a 4.5"x3.5" rectangle, and planned a 3.5"x2" band (width x length).
3. The last pattern alteration is to adjust the hood to no longer have a collar. To accomplish this I simply folded the collar extension in so that the front edge of the hood piece is essentially a straight line.
4. After all pattern pieces are cut, start sewing up your Hannah at the shoulder seams, as instructed in the tutorial. Then attach the 2 hood pieces along the center back. At this point I ironed the seam flat and the did a faux coverstitch to secure the seam.
5. Next you'll need to measure your hood's front edge to determine how long to cut the band. Mine measured approximately 14" laying folded and flat. I wanted a 1:1 ratio for the hood band, so I cut it at 28 inches (14" folded). I wanted a 5/8" trim, so I cut the band 1 3/8" wide. Remember, I'm attaching this using a faux coverstitch, so I did not need to worry about a seam allowance for appearance's sake. Press the band in half lengthwise so that you have a definite crease.
NOTE I intended to create drawstring holes, but forgot. If you would like a drawstring in your hood, be sure to mark on your band where you would like the holes placed, and finish a buttonhole, eyelet, or insert a grommet, at opposite ends of the same side of the crease. Be sure the side with the openings becomes the front side of the band.
6. Attach the hood band by sandwiching the hood piece into the band. The raw edge of the hood should line up with the crease in the band. Take care to keep the band raw edges lined up as best you can as you stitch it down. I used the faux coverstitch here, but any topstitching will work. You can also attach as a normal band by serging and then pressing. I would suggest topstitching the seam to keep it flat if you choose this method.
7. Attach the hood to the bodice by matching the center seam of the hood to the center back of the bodice. Do not stretch as you attach the hood. There will be a length of the neckline that will be left unfinished - we will address it next.
8. Measure the length of the remaining unfinished neckline. I folded my bodice in half, and measured approximately 8" along the curve. Using the 85% rule for neckbands, I calculated I'd need a 6.8" folded band. I cut my band at 7" on the fold for ease, and because I needed a slight seam allowance to allow for a finished edge where the neckline meets the hood.
Because I took my measurement on the fold and cut my band on the fold, I didn't worry about flat measurements. But for clarity, my neckband was approximately 16" and I cut a 14" band that was 1 3/8" wide (same as the hood trim band).
9. Press the neckband in half lengthwise, turning under each short end by 1/4" then attach to the neckline using the same sandwiching method as the hood trim. (Alternately, finish by serging the neckband on). Take care to match up the turned under edges of the neckband to where the hood and neckline meet, to create a smooth edge.
10. Now we'll prepare and finish the patch pockets! I did some very rough gathering on the center of the top edge of the pocket piece, just enough to cinch it about an inch. Attach the pocket bands using the sandwich technique as above, but this time with only a 1/4" overlap; alternately, match right sides together, serge and press the seam toward the pocket piece.
11. I determined my pocket placement when I cut my fabric, so to place the pockets I just had to match the pattern print. Mine are about 3.5" apart across the center line, and sit about 3 or 4 inches from the bottom raw edge. In hindsight, I could have positioned them a bit lower, but I was winging it, and the end look is still wonderful in my book!
Pin in place and stitch down along the sides and bottom edge, leaving the banded edge open.
12. Finish your Hannah according to SED tutorial instructions for sleeves, side seams, and bottom band. I opted to sandwich the cuffs and bottom band with the 1/4" overlap, so that I had the faux coverstitch finishing details.
Enjoy your spectacular new hoodie!